Wednesday 27 October 2010

Lecithin Molecular Gastronomy

Today I’d like to talk about Lecethin as I’ve had many messages asking me what it is and how to use it. It is possible I could get shot for giving away a chef secret but I want to make it simple in terms of what it is and what you can use it for.

Before i go into what you can use it for and the science behind it and how to use it I have to say that this product is absolutely amazing and will change the way you cook and how you present your food. It’s so versatile and the limitations are endless. It’s also suitable for vegetarians. Some great examples are orange foams, chocolate foams, neutral flavour but natural coloured foams for deserts, soy foams, wasabi foams, chilli foams, lemongrass foams, coriander foams for oriental dishes and pretty much anything else you can think of. Let your imagination run wild.

I am no chemist so I have researched this part although I know about most of it in general but I think its best we have all the info in one place for you to digest. Ok now for the science..........

Where is Lecithin from?

Lecithin is typically derived from soy bean as a by-product of creating soy based vegetable oil. Lecithin is extracted from hulled cooked soy beans by crushing the beans and then mechanically separating out (via extraction, filtration and washing) crude lecithin. The crude lecithin is then either enzymaticaly modified. Lecithin can also be derived from animal sources, such as eggs and animal proteins but animal derived lecithin is more expensive than plant derived lecithin so it’s less common and plant lecithin is more commonly used. (Cooking for Geeks: Real Science, Great Hacks, and Good Food by Jeff Potter)

The lecithin I’d like to talk about is plant lecithin.

Health Benefits of Lecithin
There is very little doubt as to the usefulness of lecithin in food and various industries. It is widely used as an emulsifier, but there seems a lot more that lecithin can provide.

The most popular and established health benefit of lecithin is its role in the breakdown of fats in the body. Lecithin is present in the body at the cellular level and though it is not considered as an essential nutrient, it has an indispensable role in regulating the flow of nutrients and waste materials in and out of the cell. For decades now, lecithin has been popular for treating patients with high cholesterol. It has been seen to prevent the build-up of fats and bad cholesterol in the walls of the heart, the arteries and the veins, thereby promoting food cardiovascular health.



It is for this same reason that lecithin is added as a dietary supplement for preventing liver cirrhosis. It disperses fat and help in its breakdown so that they do not accumulate in the liver. Also, since lecithin hastens the breakdown of fats and their metabolism, soy lecithin has been used for promoting weight loss.

Lecithin contains phosphatidylcholine (PC) which the main ingredient assumed to be responsible for its medicinal effect. The truth is, PC is part of the actual membrane that surrounds the cell. Once PC is ingested in the body through lecithin-containing foods or supplements, it is broken down by the body into choline which is vital for the proper functioning of the brain. (
Nutritional supplements health guide)

So how can you use Lecithin in your day to day life?

Lecithin can be used in foams to give long lasting foam, which is often flavoured. This has many benefits as you can let your imagination run wild. My reason for using Lecithin for Britain's best dish was so that I could incorporate a citrus element to the dish to cut through the spices but not soften the masala lamb or the Bombay potato like a gew or a sauce. I was able to add another element to the foam with coriander and rosewater.

I use all types of foams on my dishes and although they are perceived as poncy it does serve a purpose. It’s a way of adding massive amount of flavour to a dish but concentrating it to a foam. I don’t use gas foam canisters as you have to use gelatine as a foam agent and it doesn’t give as good results. Gelatine intolerance is quite common also so Lecithin is not only a great substitute but surpasses it on quality. I will list some recipes for Lecithin foams later on.

Lecithin can also be used in baking as a bread and dough Enhancer: Use lecithin in baking breads, rolls, muffins, biscuits, pancakes, etc., by adding approx. 3 Tbsp. per 3-4 cups of flour. As a 100% natural emulsifier, lecithin improves moisture tolerance and uniform suspension of ingredients and shortens mixing times. Bread texture and elasticity are improved, and crusts are tenderer. Fats and oils are stabilized, reducing rancidity and prolonging freshness. 

Lecithin can also be added to your milkshakes or smoothies to give them body and creaminess. 


Lecithin recipes

I could literally talk forever and give you a million recipes but I’m just going to give you a few and at a later date depending on the response from this blog post some more. I’m eager to see what recipes you have come up with so don’t forget to keep me posted. I use only powder Lecithin and not granules as it gives the finished products a smother silkier consistency.

Cranberry and apple foam.

100g of cranberries
2x sweet apples of your choice (not cooking apples)
300ml of luke warm water
1tbsp of powder Lecithin

1) Remove the skin and core of your apples then chop roughly into small chunks.

2) Add all ingredients except the Lecithin to the blender and blitz several times. If you have a good drinks blender like a blendtec you will only have to do it once.

3) Add the Lecithin then blend and leave to settle for a few minutes. You will see the foam separates from the liquid.

4) Blend again and now you will see the foam bubbles have a tighter mass to them. Now leave to settle for a few minutes.

5) Scoop the foam from the top and serve.


Prawn and cheese foam

This is great if you’re using raw prawns for your dish.

All the shells from your cooked prawns
25g of strong cheese of your choice
300ml of boiling water
1tsp of sea salt flakes
1tsp of ground white pepper
1tbsp of Nam Pla (Fish sauce) optional

1) Add the water to the pan and bring to the boil.

2) Add the cheese and stir till it’s broken down. (Don’t worry if it’s lumpy)

3) Add the prawn shells then take off the heat to cool for 10mins

4) Add all the ingredients to the blender except the Lecithin and blend a few times.

5) Add the lecithin then blend again a few times leaving it to settle in-between each blend.

6) Scoop of the foam and serve.


Blueberry, cookie and cream foam

100g of blueberries
200ml of single cream
3-4 Cookies
2tbsp of icing sugar
1tsp of natural blue food colouring

1) Add all ingredients to the blender except the Lecithin and blend a few times.

2) Add the lecithin then blend again a few times leaving it to settle in-between each blend.

3) Scoop the foam and serve.

So here’s a few to get you going. Please let me know what concoctions you come up with and enjoy letting your mind run wild.

Don’t forget to follow my blog for future recipes and tips.

Also check out www.jonathondavies.com

Take care

Jonathon

Tuesday 26 October 2010

Taking a stand to use your local butcher.

The meat I used for Britain’s best dish came from my local butcher as I wanted absolute first class quality meat. It’s funny how subconsciously we know what’s good and bad and make a decision based on that but still get drawn in to the supermarkets because it’s easier!

Nowadays, with the superstores selling everything under one roof and internet shopping and delivery, it’s so much easier to get your shopping stress free and fuss free with our fast pace of living.

However, with the demands we make on these services, it makes the stores need to feed our buying habits. With these demands, the stores have had to change the way in which they provide these to us.

We’re talking about meat and if you’re an avid meat eater like my self it’s the stuff that makes our chicken curries, steak and kidney puddings, toad in the holes and all the other exotic sumptuous foods we’ve come to expect and enjoy.

It’s true that more cattle and fowl have to be reared to meet our demands. But not only that, changes have been made to plump up the meat, to make it look fresher, last longer and seem more plump and juicy.

So what have they done to make this happen?

To start with they inject saline into the flesh of meats. This only makes the meat look plumper, it serves no other purpose. Have you ever wondered why, when cooking your chicken breasts or bacon rashers, there has been so much water? That’s because during the cooking process this water is expelled, leaving what was the original piece of meat. It’s only cosmetic.

And here’s the outcry:

That water (saline) that’s injected into the meat to make it look more appealing and plumper (along with preservatives that make it last longer on the shelves and in our fridges) also adds weight to the meat at the checkout. You pick up two chicken breasts. Normally they will weigh, say, 300g and cost about £2.00. They have been already been injected with saline (and preservatives) and now weigh 315g making you pay more for nothing. You think you’ve got a bigger piece of chicken and so you pay for a bigger piece of chicken. It’s only until you get home and see the water that’s expelled from this piece of chicken and realize (or not, as the case may’ve been – until now) that you’ve paid more money for absolutely nothing.So, even if you weren’t supporting your butcher because it’s too far out or your local one has closed down due to poor sales, please start now.

Butchers are proud to offer you local cuts of meat, they’ll cut them to your desired specification and you will get none of the unwanted additives, the only unwanted bits are what you’ll find naturaaly in the meat – fat and bones, which we all know, make fantastic stock. And above all, you’ll get that personalised service that we have become so used to living without, a bit of conversation and – well, we may actually learn something in the meantime!

I’m not saying all supermarket meat is bad, I've picked bits and bobs up when in a hurry, but the majority of my meat comes from a butcher instead. I’ve found that the best selling point for differentiating prices between the grocery store and the butcher shop is stressing the dry aging of meat, which 99% of grocery store meat departments don’t or can’t do.


For one thing, supporting local businesses is brilliant, it’s a terrible old adage but "use them or lose them" etc.

Also, visiting your butcher, generally, they care, they can give advice, they will cut it to your requirements. You can go in, not really knowing what you want, but tell them what you are cooking and they will suggest the best cut and what to do with it. Totally invaluable!

So are you supporting your local butcher and community? And they way we are all blogging about food these days I think there will always be a market for fresher, higher quality meats. A butcher shop usually charges more per pound for their meat, but I’m willing to pay for the higher quality.

So please, get supporting your local produce, local farms and local shops now, before it’s too late. One day they might be gone for good – just because it was a little too easy to go to the supermarket.





Also look out for the Q Guild at your butchers. The Q Guild represents the finest quality independent meat retailers in Britain. Butchers carrying the Q Brand send out a strong message that they are one of Britain's best butcher’s shops. Here are ten good reasons why you should shop at your nearest Q Guild butcher's shop:
· Traditional butchers craft skills
· Support the British Farming Industry
· Independently audited butchers
· Membership is an endorsements of excellence
· Total accountability, trust and confidence
· Award-winning meat products
· Outstanding choice
· Dedicated to the development
· Advice on cooking, cuts and recipes
· For friendly, personal and knowledgeable service.

Q Guild butchers have a reputation for unsurpassed product quality, provenance, innovation and customer service and adhere to the highest standards.



My butchers are one of the best and are one of the 147 butchers in the country to hold the Q Guild of excellence.

It’s a family run business since 1970 with Dad Brian working their 57 years and finally taking over the shop. His son Stuart now helps his dad in the day to day running of the business and I have to say what a good job they do too. It’s got that oldie world feel that shops used to have when we were kids. All the staff stood there in their pristine uniforms proud as punch and a display that makes your mouth water with over 95% of it made in house.

From melt in your mouth pork pies, homemade sausages to in house aged beef there isn’t anything in the shop that isn’t the best quality money can buy.

Just standing there and listening to what their customers say and how they know everyone by name is very nostalgic and hard to find in most communities these days.


I like to take this opportunity to say thanks for providing me with Britain’s best winning cannon of spring lamb and putting my masala lamb on sale in your shop.

If you’re ever in Leeds and want to pay them a visit here is the address and don’t forget to take a few quid as you will want to buy everything.

J B Meays

20 Gill Lane, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS19 7SF

Tel 0113 250 3093



Monday 25 October 2010

Spice crusted capaccio with spiced tomato and beetroot jam.

Ingredients for the spice crust.

1x large fillet of beef
1tbsp coriander seed
1tsp cumin seed
1x 4" stick of cinnamon
8 green cardamon pods
5x whole black peppercorns
1x clove
1tsp of sea salt flakes
3tbsp of groundnut oil
1x lemon

Ingredients for the tomato jam and beetroot jam.

8x large ripe tomatoes
1x clove
4x green cardamon pods
2x star anise
3x bay leafs
1x 3" cinnamon stick
4x non pickled beetroots
1tsp sea salt flakes
1tsp of white pepper
1tbsp of palm sugar
3tbsp of groundnut oil
1tbsp of tomato paste

Method

1) place beetroots on a baking tray then in to an pre heated oven at 160c for 45 mins turning occasionally.

2) In a saute pan add 3tbsp of groundnut oil then add the clove, green cardamon pods, 2x star anise, 3x bay leafs and1tsp white pepper. Fry for 2 mins then add the tomatoes and fry for 3mins.

3) Add to the pan 100ml of water then bring to the boil and simmer until the liquid has nearly all gone and the tomatoes are soft.

4) In a spice/coffee grinder, grind 1tbsp coriander seed,1tsp cumin seed, 1x 4" stick of cinnamon, 8 green cardamon pods, 5x whole black peppercorns, 1x clove and 1tsp of sea salt flakes to a fine powder.

5) Now role the fillet of beef so all sides are covered in the spices.

6) pre heat a pan and add the 3tbsp of groundnut oil then sear all sides of the spice crusted beef. Roughly 1 min each side.

7) When seared set aside to cool completely

8) Now in a blender, blend the tomatoes with the spices and add the oven roasted beetroot, tomato paste and the palm sugar.

9) clean the pan then pass the liquid through a sieve back in to the pan.

10) season with salt to taste then reduce to a thick consistency stirring often so not to burn. then place in a bowl to cool.

11) Cut the spice crusted beef into wafer thin strips and arrange on a plate so they don't overlap.

12) wait till the tomato and beetroot jam has cooled then use the juice of 1 lemon to cover the beef and leave for 10mins. The beef will go a lighter colour. Add flakes of sea salt if required.

Serve and enjoy.

Monday 18 October 2010

From online blogging to TV winning

My immense passion for food and wanting to share that passion for food with others led me to blog on food websites about my dishes and recipes, I used blogging as a way of leaving my take on food so that others can enjoy it and leave my mark on authentic and modern fusions of food.

My blogs didn’t go unnoticed and not long after I was asked by ITV to audition for their highly rated cooking program Britain's best dish 2010. Although I always take pride in my cooking I knew I had to come up with a dish that wowed the judges and take me to the grand final. Read on to see how I eventually won the show.

The winning dish was....

Seared masala cannon of spring lamb
topped with a coriander, lemon and rosewater foam sat on a fresh mint infused pea and chilli puree.
Served with a Indian sweet onion chutney, lemon, butter and nutmeg spinach base topped with an oven roasted Bombay potato and a shot of fresh cucumber, lemon, garlic, mint and mango raita.




The thought process behind the dish


After getting the call from ITV asking me to audition I knew that I wanted to make my dish special. I already knew that I would try and use locally sourced ingredient's and that I wanted to use a spring lamb.I decided that although the lamb and veg would be locally sourced to really bring out the flavor's I would use my experience of spices from around the world to compliment my lamb. Well curry is the nations favourite dish afterall!

Next it was deciding which spices I would use and after much trail and error and carefully chosen spices that I had shipped from Asia I got to work creating my signature dish.

Living in Leeds where curry is a favorite dish and from my experience of travelling round Asia I decided that I would make a curry dish with a modern twist.

I knew that by adding a fluffy Bombay potato and carefully chosen veg that my dish would cater for all palates.I decided to use the rose water foam as way of not only adding an a la carte feel to my dish but also to moisten the lamb and the lemon would cut through the spices on the pallete.

It was only after this that the much commented on chutney was created and it was not only turned out to accompany the dish perfectly but was the star of a great endorsement.

My winning dish was then complete.


The TV show

Arriving at the studio I was very nervous , however I had no doubt that my dish would go down well and I was hopeful that I would get through.

After being informed that I had made it through to the live shows I was ecstatic that I had got through and then realized that I was in with a chance of winning the show.

The first live show I was nervous but I cooked my dish to perfection and the judges praised my dish with amazing comments. I was now through to the regional final.

Winning the regional final was a shock but by that time I knew the dish had won that round.

After having a master class with celebrity chefs John Burton Race and Ed Baines, I decided to add an accompaniment to the dish at the request of the judges, this was done in the form of a raita and used mango and cucumbers to cool down the intense flavor's of the dish.

I then went on to not only win the regional final but also the grand final and here I am now, proudly showing of the dish that was deemed amazing and first class top quality food on all shows and following my dream.

It just goes to show that all this food blogging doesnt go un-noticed and its my dreams come true. It can for you too.
 
What have i done sinse the show?
 
Things have been crazy since winning the show. Ive been able to follow my dream and make food my future. Ive been booked to do event chef work for very large companies, ive also been booked for private chef work and i have been trying to get my chutneys and sauces in the supermarkets. If that isnt enough i am taking Ukookit, which is where all the passion is to make amazing food national. Unfortunatly we are not trading at the moment while all these changes are going on but keep checking out http://www.ukookit.co.uk/ for when we are back up and running.
 
 Britain's best dish 2010 winning recipe
 
So heres the recipe for you to try your self. Its a very complex dish but worth the effort. I promise all my other food blogs wont be this difficult.
 
For the Kashmiri garam masala
1.5 tbsp fennel seeds
1.5 tbsp caraway seeds
2 small bay leaves
1 tbsp coriander seed
1 tsp cumin seed
1 tbsp black cardamom seeds
¼ tsp green cardamom seeds
2.5” cinnamon stick
1 tsp cloves
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
½ tsp black peppercorns
1 large blade of mace
1 star anise
1 tsp grated nutmeg
 
For the maslal lamb marinade
(serves 2)
1 tsp garam masala (see above recipe)
½ tsp kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp black pepper
1 tsp sea salt flakes
1 2” cinnamon stick
1 clove
4 green cardamom pods
1 tsp saffron
1 tsp smoked paprika
2 tsp garlic purée
2 tsp ginger purée
25ml virgin olive oil
2 tbsp natural yogurt
Juice of 1 lemon
1 best end of lamb
 
For the sweet onion chutney
1 large red onion
1 tsp cumin seed
1 tsp sea salt flakes
1 dried Kashmiri chilli, finely chopped
½ tsp black pepper
3 large, ripe vine tomatoes
1 tsp garlic purée
1 tsp ginger purée
1 tbsp tomato paste
1½ tsp fresh palm sugar
Small bunch of fresh Indian coriander
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
For the Bombay potatoes
1 very large baking potato
1 tsp garam masala
½ tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp black pepper
1 tsp sea salt flakes
1 2” cinnamon stick
4 green cardamom pods
1 tsp smoked paprika
25ml olive oil
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
For the coriander, lemon & rose water foam
Handful of Indian coriander
2 tsp rose water
250ml boiling water
Zest & juice of 1 lemon
½ tsp of lecithin powder
 
For the pea & mint puree
300g frozen peas
200ml fresh chicken stock
Big bunch of mint
4 knobs butter, 2 for frying, 2 for blitzing
Pinch of cumin
1 small green birdseye chilli, roughly chopped
Salt and ground white pepper
 
For the raita
Thumb length of cucumber
½ clove garlic
4 sprigs of mint
2 tbsp thick Greek yoghurt
Pinch of garam masala
½ mango, cut into small cubes
Squeeze of lemon juice
 
For the spinach
Handful of spinach
Knob of butter
2 tsp lemon juice
Pinch of nutmeg

 

Preparation

For the Kashmiri garam masala
  1. Lightly dry fry all of the ingredients (excluding the nutmeg) until aromatic and set aside to cool. 
  2. Once cool, add the nutmeg and grind into a fine powder using a spice grinder.

For the marinade
  1. In the spice grinder, blend together the garam masala, the Kashmiri chilli powder, the coriander seeds, the black pepper, the sea salt flakes, the cinnamon stick, the clove, the green cardamom pods, the saffron and the smoked paprika then add the garlic and the ginger purée.  
  2. Mix well to form a paste and add the oil and the natural yogurt. Mix further until all the ingredients are fully combined.   
  3. Cut the lamb into chunky pieces.
  4. Add the lamb to the marinade, ensuring it is fully coated in the paste and leave it to marinate in the fridge for 24 hours. 
  5. After 24 hours, stir in the lemon juice and leave for a further 30 minutes.

For the sweet onion chutney
  1. Slice the red onion into strips and fry on a medium heat with the cumin seeds, the sea salt, the Kashmiri chilli and the black pepper until the onions have softened.  
  2. Blend the tomatoes together in a food processor and add them to the onions along with the garlic and ginger purées.   
  3. Simmer the mixture for 4 minutes, then add the tomato paste and the palm sugar and simmer for a further 2 minutes. 
  4. Remove from the heat and add the coriander leaves, then place in the fridge until completely chilled.

For the Bombay potatoes
  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 
  2. Using a 2½“ chef’s ring, cut a cylinder out of the potato, discarding any excess. Blanch it in simmering water for 3 minutes.   
  3. In the spice grinder, blend the garam masala, the Kashmiri chilli powder, the coriander seeds, the black pepper, the salt flakes, the cinnamon stick, the cardamom pods and the smoked paprika into a powder. Add 25ml of olive oil and mix to a paste.
  4. Spread the paste over the entire surface area of the potato, place it on a roasting tray and cook it in the oven for 45 minutes, turning half way through.  
  5. Once cooked, remove the potato from the oven and allow it to cool for 10 minutes.

For the lamb
  1. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a high heat until it starts to bubble. Add the lamb to the pan and sear off for 3 minutes, ensuring each side has contact with the pan.  
  2. Transfer the lamb to a baking tray and roast for 7 minutes.
  3. Let the lamb rest for 5 minutes before serving.

For the coriander, lemon & rose water foam
  1. In a food processor, blend together the coriander, the rose water, the boiling water, the lemon zest and juice. When blended, leave to cool for 3 minutes. 
  2. Once cooled, add the lecithin powder to the mixture and blend again until the mixture is frothy. Leave for 3 minutes till all the mixture has settled, leaving the infused froth on top.

For the pea and mint purée
  1. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, pour in the peas, stir and bring the water back to the boil. Cook the peas for 3 minutes to soften then strain them. 
  2. In a separate pan, reduce the chicken stock down to a syrup. 
  3. Bring the syrup to a boil then add in the mint, including the stalks.  
  4. Take the pan off the heat and allow the mint flavour to infuse in the stock for about 5 minutes before removing the mint. 
  5. Heat the first ½ of butter in a frying pan over a high heat, add the peas and the cumin and shake the pan from the handle. 
  6. Season the peas with pepper and transfer the mixture to a food processor. Add the chilli and a little of the infused stock and blitz to break down the peas.  
  7. Add more stock to get a nice smooth purée and, while blitzing, add the remaining butter.  
  8. Pass through a fine sieve into a fresh pan, adjust the seasoning to taste and warm through.

For the raita
  1. Peel the cucumber, then slice it in half lengthways and remove the seeds. 
  2. Lay the cucumber onto a tray and sprinkle with salt. Leave it to rest for 10 minutes then wash off the salt and dry it with kitchen towel. 
  3. Finely dice the cucumber and combine it with the chopped garlic in a bowl. 
  4. Slice the tops off the mint sprigs, roll them up and shred them finely before adding them to the cucumber. 
  5. Stir through the yoghurt, the garam masala, the mango and a squeeze of lemon juice.

For the spinach
  1. Wilt the spinach down in a pan with the butter and the lemon juice, then press all the water out with kitchen paper.

To serve
  1. Place the Bombay potato on a pre oiled baking tray and place in the oven to reheat for a few minutes. Place the potato on the plate and balance the lamb, sliced into 2, on top of it. Spoon some of the coriander foam over the lamb. 
  2. Place a good spoonful of the chutney on the plate adjacent to the lamb and the potato. 
  3. Press the spinach into a chef’s ring next to the chutney and remove the ring. Sprinkle with a little ground nutmeg. 
  4. Serve the raita in a shot glass at the centre of the plate.